Cinque Terre in 1990
Set along the cliffs of the Italian Riveria are 5 charming fishing villages –Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore that make up the Cinque Terre. It has been 25 years since I first visited the sleepy and charming Cinque Terre. Back in the summer of 1990 my other sister Susie and I backpacked through Europe with our Rick Steves Europe Through the Backdoor in hand. I still remember the short train ride from La Spezia to the Cinque Terre. The train went through many tunnels, but every so often was a glimpse of the most beautiful color of turquoise water. I knew I was about to see one of the most picturesque places I had ever visited. Upon exiting the train in Riomaggiore we were met by the one and only Mamma Rosa who ran one of the hostels in this paradise. We spent the days swimming the warm waters of the Ligurian Sea, walking between the villages and explore the narrow alleyways.
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Cinque Terre 2015
Now I find myself back in the Cinque Terre 25 years later.
Our hotel was in Monterosso with an amazing sea view. As soon as I got into the room I threw open the shutters and windows to take in the pure beauty of the Italian Riviera –stunning view of the beach and sea. Before the sun set, I rushed down to the water for a refreshing swim. I smiled thinking of the fun Susie and I had 25 years ago swimming in the same waters. At 7:00 P.M. everyone gathered in the hotel’s restaurant for a pesto demonstration from the owner of the hotel. I loved watching and listening to her as she prepared the World's Best Ever pesto. OMG, it was so delicious. There truly is something magical about the olive oil found in Italy. In the States we simply don't have the same quality. The demo was followed by a fantastic dinner of lasagna and sea bass. Dessert was an ice cream cake with the bottom soaked in rum and then topped with sliced strawberries and drizzled chocolate. Basically deliciousness.
Actually, I’ve turned into an Italian food snob. With all this fresh, delicious homemade food, Italy is spoiling me for eating “Italian food” back in Seattle. I can already tell that I will be overcome with disappointment and sadness when I try pesto, cannoli, pasta and sauces when I get home.
Life is so good. Tomorrow is a nothing planned, free day to explore the 5 villages on our own.
Our hotel was in Monterosso with an amazing sea view. As soon as I got into the room I threw open the shutters and windows to take in the pure beauty of the Italian Riviera –stunning view of the beach and sea. Before the sun set, I rushed down to the water for a refreshing swim. I smiled thinking of the fun Susie and I had 25 years ago swimming in the same waters. At 7:00 P.M. everyone gathered in the hotel’s restaurant for a pesto demonstration from the owner of the hotel. I loved watching and listening to her as she prepared the World's Best Ever pesto. OMG, it was so delicious. There truly is something magical about the olive oil found in Italy. In the States we simply don't have the same quality. The demo was followed by a fantastic dinner of lasagna and sea bass. Dessert was an ice cream cake with the bottom soaked in rum and then topped with sliced strawberries and drizzled chocolate. Basically deliciousness.
Actually, I’ve turned into an Italian food snob. With all this fresh, delicious homemade food, Italy is spoiling me for eating “Italian food” back in Seattle. I can already tell that I will be overcome with disappointment and sadness when I try pesto, cannoli, pasta and sauces when I get home.
Life is so good. Tomorrow is a nothing planned, free day to explore the 5 villages on our own.
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The next morning at breakfast Patricia handed out our all-day boat passes. I don’t remember a boat back in the 90’s. We either walked or took the train. Liz and I caught a mid-morning boat to Vernazza which was a short 10 minute ride. The weather changed overnight and the water was really choppy and the sky was overcast. I sat outside on the left side of the boat. At first I was spritzed with a fine mist of salt water and then drenched when waves crashed over the side. At one point it was so rough one of the big round buoys bounced onto the bench next to me. Liz and I walked around the village before grabbing a quick lunch on the harbor. To get a fabulous view of Vernazza we walked up the narrow stairs to Castello Doria.
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After taking a ton of pictures, we caught the boat to Riomaggiore. The weather had taken a bit of a turn for the worst and Liz decided to continue on the boat back to Monterosso . I wandered around trying to recognize the village, but had difficulty. A lot has changed since my first trip. It no longer is a “hidden Backdoor” destination. In my mind, I pictured the Cinque Terre would still be quiet and mostly undiscovered by tourists. There were so many people everywhere I went. I guess it took me my surprise. Perhaps, it shouldn’t have, but it did. As I ventured further into Riomaggiore I found myself wandering through a maze of tight alleyways. There were fabulous photo opportunities. I tried to find Mama Rosa’s place, but couldn’t.
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Caught the boat back to Monterosso and ended the day with a wonderful dinner with 5 other women from our group. It was a great way to end our time in Cinque Terre. The restaurant was outdoors. The area is known for anchovies, so I had an appetizer of Ligurian style anchovies. Liz and I split the most delicious seafood risotto. Unbelievably good. One of my favorite things about a Rick Steves tour is the time spent socializing over delicious meals. All of us shared stories of what we did during our free-day. It was a fun evening.